Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to a West Village for honeyed and delicious treats.
The enormously gifted Umber Ahmad and Shelly Barbera have been delighting fritter fans for a series of years now (including a certain Tom Colicchio, who became something of a mentor), with their mail sequence and indiscriminate outfit Mah-Ze-Dahr.
I initial encountered their treats in a run of a High Line Hotel, where we could get a few of their treats with your crater of coffee. They were good but, frankly, usually only good. Selling your things around delegate venues can do that sometimes.
Then final week, after approach too many months of waiting, Ahmad finally non-stop her Mah-Ze-Dahr storefront bakery in a West Village, and wow what a disproportion it creates to get these goodies right from a source.
Mah-Ze-Dahr—the name is formed on an Urdu word, describing a “magic that creates food delicious”—feels a bit lush by bakery standards, with a tall, cushioned banquette opposite from a wrap-around fritter opposite in a balmy categorical room, and some-more seats in a behind during a community list by Barbera’s finishing kitchen. A moodily-lit, deep-blue corridor connects a dual spaces, buffering a laptoppers in behind from a rush of after-school snackers adult front, uninformed from PS 41 that is right subsequent door.
The staffers are all as accessible and welcoming as we would wish a organisation of people offered we honeyed treats would be.
Nearly all I’ve eaten during Mah-Ze-Dahr during a opening week—and that’s about a dozen opposite pastries—has been exceptional. The textures Ahmad and Barbera awaken out of brew are phenomenal.
To take only one example, a Chocolate Explosion manages to be crisp, chewy, and dissolve-on-your-tongue fleeting in a same bite. Add a low cocoa season and a magnanimous powdering of honeyed powdery sugar, and we have a cookie for a ages.
The Brioche Donut is both, somehow, ideally ethereal and dense. Veins of thick vanilla custard within yield a well-spoken hardness to a mix, and sugarine crystals on tip supplement additional benevolence as good as a bit of crunch.
Other highlights here embody a decadent, cream-filled Choux, accessible in both vanilla (which is superb) and chocolate. The latter finished with a mark of bullion root only to make we feel additional special. The Brown Butter Blondie looks sincerely harmless though packs a wickedly-good butterscotch punch. The baking duo’s thickly-iced riff on a classical Black and White hits all a right records of chocolate, vanilla, butter, along with a hint-of-citrus.
The turn Coffee Cake is studded with fruit and infused with espresso. The Chocolate Chip Cookie is solid, if a bit nonessential amidst all of a other wonders. And if we wish something on a super-sweet side, a high Mah-Ze-Dahr Bar (contents: chocolate chips, pickled caramel, toasted pecan, TONS of butter), unequivocally explodes with slimey goodness.
There are several delicious options as well, such as their superb Savory Scone with pointy cheddar and pieces of jalapeño, and a even some-more superb Spinach Feta Hand Pie, finish with a special za’atar mix for additional zing.
Locals are understandably anxious that a mark is finally open (the coffee, by a way, is from a best Intelligentsia), though Mah-Ze-Dahr is a loyal end bakery as well. Ahmad and Barbera are indeed operative that sorcery here in a West Village, and this is now one of a best ubiquitous fritter shops in NYC.
Mah-Ze-Dahr is located during 28 Greenwich Avenue, only north of West 10th Street, and is open during a week from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. and on a weekends from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (212-498-9810; mahzedahrbakery.com)