Mercy in downtown Minneapolis ignites a recoil opposite a double-patty cheeseburger

The burger: Prepare for a backlash. After years of drifting high in a internal burger stratosphere, has a double-patty cheeseburger started a descent?

Witness a celebrated deficiency from a menu during Mercy, prepare Mike Rakun’s just-opened remake of Marin Restaurant Bar in a Le Meridien Chambers hotel in downtown Minneapolis.

“Double-patty burgers are great, and there’s a time and a place for them,” he said. “But when it comes to a burger, we like to get a nice, big, brawny bite. You can prepare [a singular patty] to temp, and it’s good and juicy. And when we make them during home, this is how we do it, with a big, thick patty. Besides, everybody else is doing a double.”

He’s not teasing on a whole big-bite thing. This champion of a 6-oz. patty radiates an plenty (that’s being modest) brawny flavor. It’s all due to the in-house grind, a luxe brew of pitch and brisket, fortified by a few tip weapons: trims from a menu’s tenderloin, New York frame and sirloin steaks. Here’s proof postive that it’s customarily a good thought to sequence a burger during a steakhouse, or a steak-centric restaurant. “It also doesn’t harm that a beef is 100 percent primary Niman Ranch,” pronounced Rakun. Um, no, it doesn’t.

The patties are prepared on a flattop griddle — cave was taken to a accurate medium, as requested — with a somewhat sizzled, caramelized burn on a tip and bottom surfaces and a poignant volume of juices sneaking on a inside, watchful to be released. 

Holding loyal to a Old School Cheeseburger name, a garnishes are simple, and effective: a suprisingly luscious tomato slice, a flurry of shredded iceberg lettuce and a hoop of soft, white Gouda cheese.

There are also chopped (and easily crunchy) tender onions. “I adore tender onions,” pronounced Rakun. “Whenever I’m slicing onions, we customarily eat them, I’ve been doing that given we was little. Plus, they cocktail opposite a complicated burger. And we can prepare onions, though don’t we already get adequate of that caramelized season when we prepare a patty on a flattop?” Point good taken.

Oh, and fanastic pickles, with garlic and dill slow in any bite. “We were going for a Claussen-style flavor,” he said. And there’s a curtsy to a Special Sauces of a world, nonetheless this one is curiously lacking a foundational ingredient: ketchup. It’s not missed. Instead, there’s Dijon mustard, a house-made mayonnaise, a small smoked paprika and a barrel-aged Worcestershire sauce. The formula supplement a hold of zing, though don’t overwhelm. Well done.

Finally, there’s a (toasted) bun. “It’s a darned good one, isn’t it?” pronounced Rakun. Yeah, it is, although let’s get real: a inexhaustible levels of butter would rouse a Wonder Bread bun. “We put Harvey during Turtle Bread adult to a charge of creation us a challah hamburger bun. This is what he dreamed up, and it’s awesome.” Agreed.

Has a single-patty burger found an audience? “We’re offered a ton, it’s kind of ridiculous,” pronounced Rakun. “But people here adore their burgers. I’m commencement to think that a burger competence be a Minnesota state dish.”

Price: $14, and fit [see Niman Ranch, above].

Fries: None. Instead, a inexhaustible handful of potato chips, admirably rendered. They’re parchment-thin and smoothly crisp, with nary a snippet of greasiness and a nuanced though effective hold with a salt shaker (years of overseing health-conscious Mill Valley Kitchen has clearly burnished off on Rakun). we might never be means to face a bag of Old Dutch, ever again. Wait, who am we kidding?

But what’s a understanding with skipping a fries?  “I dunno,” pronounced Rakun. “We do offer them, and if we wish to get a side of fries [price: $8], some-more energy to you. But we consider chips are a good small break contrariety with a burger. They’re positively a small lighter than a large handful of fries, generally during lunch. We wish people to be means to travel out a doorway and feel good about themselves.”

Timely cost reduction: Rakun offers a same burger (minus a chips) for 10 bucks during happy hour(s), a really good deal, indeed. “It harm to put that cost on a menu,” he pronounced with a laugh. Take a chair anywhere in a bar and sequence between 3 and 6 p.m. daily, as good as anytime between 9 p.m. and whenever a kitchen calls it quits. “Wicked” ticketholders, are we profitable attention?

Address book: 901 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-252-7000. Open 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday by Thursday, 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Burger served during brunch (11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekends), lunch (11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays) and cooking (3 to 10 p.m. Sunday by Thursday, 3 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday).

Talk to me: Do we have a favorite burger? Share a sum during rick.nelson@startribune.com.

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