When we wish a steak and are prepared to palm over a flattering penny for it, chances are we slight your choices down to a Final Four of The Capital Grille, Fleming’s, Ruth’s Chris and Folk’s Folly.
Of these, Folk’s Folly is a internal choice and it offers something useful to Memphis diners that a others don’t: Nostalgia. We are a city of diners that wish to eat where we ate with a parents, where we went on a initial date, where we distinguished birthdays and other special occasions.
And, well, that’s not always good, not in a city where a culinary stage has altered like it has in Memphis. But during Folk’s, it’s usually fine.
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A brief history
This year Folk’s Folly strike a vast 4-0. Developer and local Memphian Humphrey Folk, Jr. wanted a grill with primary steaks and glorious wine, like a ones he dined during on his travels around a country.
Pete Aviotti was there during a beginning.
“We were sitting in Nashville and he asked me, ‘Pete, where do we get a good beef in Memphis?’ And we pronounced ‘I don’t eat beef in Memphis, since we don’t have a good steakhouse. He pronounced that we should open one and we told him we didn’t know anything about a grill business. He said, ‘Well, we know I’m a good patron and we know what a patron wants.'”
(Other people pointed out to Folk that he knew zero about a grill business, adequate of them that he motionless to name a place Folk’s Folly.)
Folk’s Folly is a Memphis establishment of glorious dining portion glorious cuts of meat, seafood, and salads for 40 years.
Jim Weber/The Commercial Appeal
Not prolonged after that brief conversation, Folk called Aviotti and told him to go take a demeanour during a residence during Black Road and Mendenhall.
“He pronounced that was where a grill would go, that we would have to do a lot of work to it yet that it was a right place. He hired me as a executive clamp boss of a construction association and afterwards a ubiquitous manager of a restaurant,” Aviotti said.
He was there about 8 years, and one thing he did was sinecure stream ubiquitous manager Diane Kauker as a hostess, who was recently named the Tennessee Restaurateur of a Year.
In 2003, Folk took on a late Thomas Boggs as a managing partner. Now Folk’s four sons and Boggs’ 3 daughters possess it.
The bar is clubby, with dim wood, a piano actor and vast aquariums that lighten adult a atmospheric nonetheless friendly room; it was updated this year to yield more seating. The dining bedrooms operation from sprawling to some-more intimate, and a tiny private rooms with usually one table, closed off by complicated curtains, are ideal for a regretful cooking or for articulate business in private—you decide.
The menu is large; a booze list a equal. While primary beef was a concentration when a grill non-stop and stays so, today’s Folk’s offers a bit some-more variety. The endless core menu stays a same, yet a new menu is introduced weekly solely in December, when specials runs dual weeks. A new menu featured 3 starters, 4 entrees and a dessert. Among these was a Wagyu coulotte, an unusually proposal sirloin top served with a lime-soy brownish-red butter.
Executive cook Max Hussey went to Folk’s final year from eighty3 with a list of considerable restaurants around a nation on his resume. He develops a specials formed on anniversary accessibility (a fig salad final summer was superb) and market prices. The Wagyu was from Mishima Reserve in Washington, and not, Hussey said, something he can means to offer often.
Always on a beef menu are a ribeye, cowboy ribeye, New York strip, porterhouse, a filet mignon and a petite filet mignon. Interestingly, a filets are not primary and that’s not unusual. As Kauker explained, usually 3 percent of beef is USDA primary and a tenderloin is a tiny partial of a cow. So it’s scarce, yet it’s also so gaunt that it’s not required for it to be primary as marbling is a self-existent or scarcely immaterial factor.
The ribeye, generally my favorite cut, was all a beef should be: Tender and deeply flavored, baked precisely as requested, surfaced with butter, prohibited and entirely satisfying.
Everything during Folk’s is a la carte. There’s a good preference of sides and some of my favorites embody a tawny spinach casserole, artichoke bottoms with bearnaise (though I keep perplexing to remember to ask for Hollandaise instead as we consider a lemony spice would be nice), potatoes au gratin and a newish dish, white cheddar courage cakes surfaced with remoulade (shout out to a Grit Girl in Oxford). An sequence of those, tawny and cheesy inside and frail outside, with a potion of booze during a bar would make a good light cooking for me any day.
Let’s not forget a vast onion rings and while we’re there, it’s time to move out a vast guns: The burger. On weekends, we can get a $15 burger belligerent from whatever additional happens to be on hand, and remember, many of a beef is prime. It’s glorious and I’m fearful we roughly abandoned my ribeye when pity during my final cooking there. The beef is buttery, magnificently proposal and a soothing bun is ideal for it. You can get mushrooms and sauteed onions on it, yet we like cave served aged school, with mustard, plight and onion. (You get plight spears, though, so be prepared to cut them yourself.)
Other equipment value mentioning are Folly’s tidbits, pieces of filet cut in bite-size morsels, battered, fast boiled and served with bearnaise sauce. The lamb we ate recently was ideally baked and also really tender, something I’ve been challenged to find in restaurants the past integrate of years. It’s served with packet preserve and I’d cite a packet sauce, yet conjunction was necessary.
Portions are huge and a food is always good. Indeed it is pricey, as beef houses are. But it’s a comfortable and mouth-watering place, good for special occasions if a bill allows, good for customary dining if that’s what your bill accommodates as a menu is so large. Service is excellent, a piano 6 nights week (not on Sundays) is a good touch, a bar pours a good drink, a kitchen turns out good food and Kauker and her group run a parsimonious ship.
Food: *** 1/2
Atmosphere: *** 1/2
Service: *** 1/2
Address: 551 S. Mendenhall
Hours: Monday by Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Sunday 5:30-9 p.m. Lounge opens during 5 p.m. daily.
Reviewer’s choice: Ribeye (16 ounces, $48); Australian shelve of lamb (half rack, $37; full, $59); cheeseburger ($15, Friday by Sunday only). Sides: white cheddar courage cakes with remoulade, creamed spinach, potatoes au gratin (sharable, $9 each). Folly’s tidbits ($14)