Elijah Churchill’s All-American Barbecue House review: Lively Northport grill struggles with menu makeover

Sweet Casserole - a mixture of honeyed tater

Sweet Casserole – a mixture of honeyed tater tots drizzled with cream salsa and studded with bacon, roasted tomato and maple glitter during Elijah Churchill’s All-American Barbecue House in Northport. Photo Credit: Marisol Diaz


1031 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport

631-261-9678, elijahchurchills.com

COST: $$

AMBIENCE: Roadside pub with a roadhouse aptitude

SERVICE: Laid back, useful and accessible

ESSENTIALS: Tuesday to Thursday 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday 3 to 11 p.m.; Saturday noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday noon to 9 p.m. Music Thursday by Saturday.

On a surface, Elijah Churchill’s is what it has always been — a arguable watering hole where happy hour, internal bands and a grate keep a friendly roadhouse hopping.

On a new Thursday, diners assimilated as an acoustic rope crooned a bluegrassy cover of John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads.” On her approach out, a patron was so taken by a band, she pennyless into a dance that for a brief impulse done her a dining room darling.

But an renovate was most needed. After scarcely dual decades of cooking pub transport during this tavern, named for a flashy Revolutionary War sergeant who served in conflict on Long Island, ubiquitous manager Cory Hendrickson and co-owner Douglas Jaffe motionless that smoked meats and Southern transport were sorely lacking in a Nortport area.

Soon they hired Tom Fazio, who helms a circuitously catering hall, as a cook and consultant, ripped adult a menu (the sole holdover is a reliable, no-frills burger), revamped a kitchen and used a event to make some pointed cosmetic changes to a dining room. In September, Elijah Churchill’s Public House gave approach to Elijah Churchill’s All- American Barbecue House, fasten Long Island’s rush to barbecue.

Fazio’s menu is not for a diet conscious, with a reward on fat, honeyed and fried. He’s a self-proclaimed fan of sweetened glazes, and they hold only about all on a menu with varying degrees of success.

A fork-tender half-roast chicken, a prominence of a menu, is served with an apricot and chili glitter that gives a skin a candy-like cloaking and a bronze tint. The bird comes nestled on a crisp, homemade waffle, yet one time it came soggy.

A maple glitter adds a hold of benevolence to crunchy, potato-chip-like Brussels sprouts. Mixed with peppercorn, a glitter does small to assistance steep legs that have been baked to a golden crisp, though during a cost of beef that is tough and dry.

Maple is a finishing hold on a stew of honeyed potato tots layered in bacon and roasted tomato, with cream sauce. The initial bites are a best. As a stew rests, a weight of a tools fast turns this infrequently beguiling play on installed potatoes into mush.

The boiled steep comes with a thick buttermilk coat, a covering of maple syrup rebate and is sprinkled with sharp sriracha powder. Large hunks of honey-dipped cornbread are wet though overly sweet. Mac and cheese done an coming in a soupy four-cheese salsa one night. During a second visit, it’s baked well, though overly salted.

It’s a smoker where a menu unequivocally struggles. Barbecue might sound like a easy, though delayed cooking over fume is a formidable art form. The brisket (dry and light on flavor) is outsourced. The rest of a beef from a smoker is done in house.

A half-rack of ribs is neutral and cold. Even when comfortable on another visit, it lacks a shred-in-your-mouth hardness indispensable for standout baby back. Pulled pig is tear-jerking and weighed down by a complicated sip of mustard glaze. Smoked and shredded steep suffers a same predestine with apple griddle sauce. Salads, too, are overdressed. A shredded brew of winter vegetables — kale, golden beets, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, carrots and red cabbage — and raisins is complicated on a honeyed vinaigrette.

Desserts can be equally unpredictable. Deep-fried Twinkies ambience as if they have been boiled in aged oil, though a carrot cake is feathery and a singular instance where a benevolence is subdued.

Better to concentration on high-end whiskeys and tequilas, and a revamped cocktail menu to element a Long Island- complicated drink list that includes glorious taps from circuitously Sand City Brewing Co. Try a Purple Heart, Elijah’s play on an a Manhattan, or a Pollywog, a bourbon-laced take on a Moscow Mule.

At Elijah’s, a kitchen won’t win any griddle competitions, though it’s tough not to have a sharp-witted dusk when a internal rope is in a residence and a bar is good stocked.

A cops contributor incited food author (and occasional on-camera daredevil), Pervaiz Shallwani is a Cubs fan, griddle bulb and doting dad.He’ll try anything (edible) during slightest once though is alwayson a surveillance for crimes opposite cuisine.

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