Doughbird review: Fox Restaurant’s Phoenix pizza and duck corner is a bargain, though basic


Food Critic Dominic Armato reviews Fox Restaurant Concept’s new grill Doughbird.
Diana Payan/

Dinner during a Sam Fox grill is a bargain, and Doughbird Pizza Rotisserie is no exception.

I’m not articulate about a prices, yet that’s infrequently a case. But let me explain.

Fox, a titanic, award-winning figure behind a self-titled Fox Restaurant Concepts, is a challenging businessman. “Empire” is not too confidant a word to report a grill organisation with more than 60 outlets travelling 16 brands and 10 states, and no restaurateur has had a bigger impact on a Valley’s dining stage over a past decade.

The hit on Fox is that in regulating Phoenix as a proof belligerent for inhabitant concepts — a business incubator for that food is a widget — he sucks adult all a oxygen in a room, gloomy a kind of creative, midrange independents that are critical to an elaborating food culture.

The counterpoint is that he runs a razor-sharp association that takes good caring of a employees and infrequently does pierce a culinary needle (if reduction aggressively). Plus, any internal success story is a success story, full stop.

Either way, a diners have spoken. Fox Restaurant Concepts is by no means defence to the pressures common by a whole industry, yet many grill owners would gladly carve off a integrate of digits (speaking fingers, not figures) if it meant pulling down Fox-like numbers.

Give a people what they want 

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