Perhaps we have already listened about a Pharmacy Burger during La Lucha, cook Ford Fry’s reverence to ye olde San Jacinto Inn and assorted ambience memories from his Houston childhood. Fry says a burger — that clocks in during $12.95 and is one of a slightest costly equipment on La Lucha’s menu — is an loyalty to a ones he remembers from Whataburger and a strange Avalon Diner, behind when it operated out of a River Oaks drugstore.
I confess we am sentimental about conjunction Whataburger nor a burgers during Avalon Diner. (I did adore a pecan waffles there, though.) But after checking out a Pharmacy Burger from Fry and cook Bobby Matos, we am entirely prepared to extend it full nostalgia standing in a future. Here’s why:
PRICE: $12.95 for a double-double cheeseburger; $4 for fries with smoked-oyster mayo. Add a splash and you’re looking during a add-on that will mangle a $20 barrier.
ORDERING: list or bar-counter use only.
ARCHITECTURE: The burger comes swaddled in bullion hankie paper, and we couldn’t start to tell we possibly a salad mixture go on a bottom or a top, since we could’t unequivocally tell a tip from a bottom. That’s since a potato-like buns concerned are so flattened and indian on a griddle that they demeanour flattering most identical.
But here’s how a layers built up: a large ol’ appropriate of mayonnaise surfaced with a wispy iceberg chiffonade; followed by a beef patty, melted American cheese, another beef patty, some-more cheese; afterwards some thinly sliced tomato, honeyed plight disks, finely chopped tender onion and yellow mustard. So we theory we could contend a salad things is on a tip AND a bottom, an surprising pattern decision.
QUALITY: we looked during a records we typed into my iPhone during a grill and a initial (and only) word after my systematic list of mixture is “swoon.” That flattering most covers it.
I desired all about this burger, from a assertive flare on a well-seasoned, irregularly done beef patties, with their engaging clefts and crannies; to a pretentious sploosh of beef juices and burger douse that sprang brazen with any bite.
That classical Texas burger season form of sharp, bitey mustard and balmy mayo rang all a right bells. The honeyed spice of a housemade pickles combined a bit of individuality. The gummy hook of a American cheese opposite a crustiness of a patties was accurately right. we laughed during a approach a wispy crinkles of lettuce flew each that approach and marveled during a fact that a sliced tomatoes were red and had some flavor. (Many of a ones I’ve been served newly have hexed possibly quality.)
The best partial about this burger was that a flavors and textures sang peace all a approach through. The bun hold together (perhaps a application helped), so that a knowledge was disorderly in a smashing and docile way. And we unequivocally favourite a fact that a burger wasn’t a lofty beast store o’ meat. The proportions had a good out-of-date tact to them.
LETTER GRADE: A and plus. This one pennyless a damn scale.
OOZE RATING: sublime
BONUS POINTS: OK, we wasn’t taken with a somewhat pale, twiggy fries, that were not most of an alleviation over spare fries from a freezer bag. What we did love, and what done a and of a minus, was a astonishing smoked-oyster mayo served with a fries. That briny, smoked sea season preoccupied me opposite a neutral potato canvas.
Other attractions are a accessibility of a handful of engaging beers and lots of wines by a glass, as good as a rarely suitable soft-serve dessert showered with dejected Oreos.
LOCAL COLOR: At only over a month old, La Lucha is a moment’s be-there-or-be-square restaurant. So a people-watching can be both abounding and frenetic, generally on a weekend evening. The revamp of a former Hunky Dory space is as large as you’d design from a Fry restaurant, and a clientele, while diverse, is not worrying about their bank balances. When we come behind for this burger — and we crave it, so we will — I’m going to try for a chair during a bar during a somewhat off hour, so that we can make a stately disaster but creation a open philharmonic of myself.