The good news: The Restaurant Week menu during a Loyalist is not usually a delight, yet a good understanding during $33. Most importantly, it includes a sub-level West Loop restaurant’s famous unwashed burger, a luscious smoke-stack that lives adult to both a disorderly name and large billing.
The bad news: It seems as if a whole city knows this already. Not usually is a grill indifferent online until Feb. 9 (as of this writing), yet when my guest and we showed adult during a entertain to a 4 p.m. opening Saturday, we assimilated a four-person line, and, by a time a Loyalist burst a doors, a line was prolonged adequate to fill adult a bar immediately.
Still: We were early (and lucky), walking in for dual spots during a bar and unresolved out for an hour to wait for a kitchen’s 5 p.m. opening. We also enjoyed a clever span of fresh, winter-agnostic cocktails: Buddha’s Little Finger and Helluva Sunrise.
There was usually a singular choice for a initial course: a uninformed salad of bibb lettuce, fromage blanc, thinly shaved radish and a immature enchantress dressing. Between a soothing cheese and a dressing, a plate was tawny and rich, that is usually how we like a salad of greens.
For a second course, dual options were offered, yet one –– a cheeseburger –– was a apparent choice contra a fusilli served atop short-rib-and-tripe Bolognese.
Rest assured, a grill week cheeseburger was a same set of patties served to those grouping it a la carte, as a dual women subsequent to us during a bar did. The burger backs adult each word that’s been spoken about it — including a own. The sandwich is accurately what we wish for: juicy, cheesy and messy, with a inexhaustible apportionment of pickles and onions. Their slight vinegar astringency competence be a burger’s specifying characteristic, a acquire pierce opposite a differently delicious flavors. The fries are also outstanding.
Meanwhile, a fusilli was ideally cooked, and a piquancy of a Bolognese bottom strike accurately a right note. The pasta and sauce’s chewy coexistence was a textural pleasure. The fusilli was a usually object singular to a Restaurant Week menu; a Bolognese is routinely served with ricotta cavatelli.
For dessert, a coconut frail tartlets were among a lighter equipment in an differently abounding menu: Airy, flaky and not too coconut-y. The heavier chocolate mousse brulee complemented them, as did a tough caramelized sugarine crumbles. The second choice — a hazelnut praline smoke filled with a soothing churned cream and crunchy hickory nuts — fell in line with a richer precursors, yet that didn’t stop me from eating each bite.
If we can squeeze a chair during a Loyalist for a Restaurant Week prix-fixe setup, it’s a chair value display adult early for and/or watchful for, with large flavors, interrelated courses and a eminent burger, all during $33. Getting that mark will be a trickiest part, though, so good luck.
177 N. Ada St #001., 773-913-3774, smythandtheloyalist.com
Chicago Restaurant Week runs by Feb. 8, and facilities some-more than 370 restaurants charity three-course lunches and brunches ($22) and three- and four-course dinners ($33, $44). For participating restaurants, menus and online reservations, go to www.eatitupchicago.com.