If you’re dining during Backwoods Crossing and a cook unexpected runs out a door, don’t be alarmed.
He competence be journey a kitchen to fetch uninformed Flamingo Pink Swiss chard, dragon carrots or maybe a Devil’s Ear lettuce grown in a garden surrounding a restaurant. Or there competence be a dire need for purple Midnight Dreams bell peppers, low orange Turkish eggplants or uninformed eggs.
“We wish to grow special items, not something you’re going to buy during Publix,” pronounced Backwoods Crossing cook Jesse Rice, who owns a grill with his brother, Tyler.
But there’s also copiousness of informed food grown here. Broccoli, Brussels sprouts and shiitake mushrooms are among a 30 or so winter vegetables and spices that could breeze adult on your plate. In a summer, when a series of sundry crops will some-more than double, there’s some-more immature goodness.
Some restaurants competence overstate their farm-to-table boasts, though diners usually have to travel outward to see a crops growing during Backwoods Crossing.
Jesse, 31, and Tyler, 29, spent months transforming a building that was once Stinky’s Fish Camp into Backwoods Crossing, open for business given May 30. Jesse also owns Backwoods Bistro on Tennessee Street with his longtime friend, Taylor Harrell.
Backwoods Crossing is really opposite from a cousin. It has a folksy feel of a farmhouse, with an indoor porch and radiant hunger floors. The brothers incited crape myrtle branches into poetic accents, displaying garden apparatus and colorful cinema of vegetables. When a continue cooperates, diners can also eat outward in a garden.
The brothers grow crops on 3 of their 4 acres though they now have a full-time gardener and aim to keep planting.
Step inside and you’ll see a “growing room” where little seedlings take root. These seedlings after pierce to a greenhouse. About 30 plants in a hothouse granted tomatoes all winter. But generally, a plants eventually go outside.
Backwoods Crossing doesn’t have an central organic acceptance though Jesse pronounced healthy methods are used; no pesticides. Furthermore, their kitty, Athena, helps keeps critters away.
Aside from crops, a Rice brothers have a rooster and 73 chickens, that will furnish about 18,000 eggs a year, used in a grill or for sale to take home. Soon, Backwoods Crossing will be lifting cower for eggs and meat.
Backwoods Crossing can’t grow all a possess food, so a place also uses mixture from internal and informal farms as good as standard food distributors.
One menu offers a extended preference of dishes, including steak, seafood and duck, from sundry sources. A apart piece called Garden Creations facilities about 9 or 10 starters and entrees that change weekly. Each of these dishes facilities during slightest one to 3 apparatus grown in a Backwoods Crossing garden.
One fun garden option: A $50 sampler of 6 tiny plates for sharing. Allow 30 mins for Jesse and his cooks to emanate dishes on a fly, regulating what’s in a garden. The sampler’s on my list to try. Instead, my father and we common a make-your-own salad, checking off choices for lettuce, vegetables, protein, toppings and dressing. A few apparatus (like nuts, cheese and meats, noted with an asterisk), aren’t grown on site. The cost depends on a mixture we select (lettuce is $5, vegetables $1 each, for instance).
Our salad enclosed a mix of lettuce grown on site: butter crunch, merlot and Devil’s Ear, that notwithstanding a name, has a heavenly, eccentric taste. We combined yellow and purple dragon carrots, beets and mushrooms, bedecked with orange segments. The salad was so uninformed and refreshing, memorable. We couldn’t conflict a abounding blue cheese salsa — all dressings though a Caesar are house-made.
Another hit: lustrous slivers of tender scallops in a carpaccio with a citrusy zing. The mollusks are layered with rings of immature bell peppers and chopped tomatoes and greens — a furnish from a garden — surfaced with a mistake caviar. we got a plate by mistake. we had indeed systematic a opposite scallop plate — though it was a felicitous mix-up.
Also good: the pig slider with slow-cooked collard greens. A crony and we suspicion a grill salsa was a bit honeyed though favourite a meat. The grill gets whole hogs from a Great Southern Forestry in Monticello. we do cite a beef sliders on a unchanging menu, with dual luscious tenderloin patties bedecked with frail wisps of boiled onions, arugula and a blueberry-jalapeño reduction. Most dishes embody a side salad, with greens from outward sources.
The kitchen nails old-fashioned corn fritters, done with corn off a cob. One of my favorite dishes is a robust corn poke crab cake stack, that combines a poke with dual fat crab cakes, sliced avocado, tomatoes and a drizzle of house-made remoulade sauce. It’s officious decadent and delicious.
Also decadent: a smashing desserts. I’ve sampled a bread pudding (with a caramel reduction), honeyed potato stew (it tastes like Thanksgiving) and cinnamon-scented apple pulp (with Bourbon-glazed Granny Smith apples). All house-made and so good.
There’s a full bar with artistic cocktails. Happy diners can “Hydrate a Kitchen,” that means shopping a turn of drink for a cooks. They’ll scream and howl their thanks.
It was glorious on dual of 3 trips. On one packaged Saturday night, use was delayed and disorganized. On other visits, a staff was attentive, fit and welcoming.
Starters $8 to $12; soups and salads $6 to $13; sandwiches $9 to $12; entrees $17 to $27; desserts $5 to $8.
With a uninformed fare, native atmosphere and plantation concept, Backwoods Crossing is a special dining experience. This place is value a visit. It will grow on you.
Tallahassee Table Rating
Worth a Drive
If we go
What: Backwoods Crossing
Where: 6725 Mahan Dr.; 850-765-3753
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Live song 7 to 9 p.m. Thursday nights. Happy hour 4 to 7 p.m. weekdays.
Reservations: For 6 or more.